The Bridge of the Gods
After getting sick and needing to get off trail, I spent a wonderful 10 days back in my home state of Minnesota. I was able to finally heal my body and immune system after several weeks of terrible sleep, several self-evac situations, and southern Oregon having few options for larger towns with aid.
I was able to attend and be a part of my cousin Marie's wedding, and it was such a wonderful celebration of two people who love each other so much! Erich flew up from Atlanta to attend with me, and we were so happy to be together again. It was a short few days together before I needed to head back to trail.
While I was at home, Ziploc, Super Noodz, and OK continued hiking north. Around Bend, OR, they were separated as Zip needed to pick up her pace to make it to Portland to meet up with her girlfriend while Noodz was meeting up with a friend in Bend for a few days so was hanging behind. I got a call from Ziploc after a few days, and she proposed that the two of us meet back up in Portland after my cousin’s wedding. This way, we could restart our journeys from Timberline Lodge in northern Oregon and continue into Washington together.
This plan meant I’d be missing some miles in Oregon, but at this point in the experience, the people began to mean far more to me than any number of miles. I knew the end was creeping in closer and closer, and I wanted to spend that time with the people I’d grown so close to.
So the plan was set - I would meet back up with Ziploc in Portland, and we’d set off as a duo to finish off the last 50 miles of Oregon and then embark on the final state of this journey - Washington.
Mile 2111.7
I’m camped with Ziploc just north of Mt. Hood in Oregon. We left Timberline Lodge this morning after enjoying their famous breakfast buffet and lounging in the warm, rustic great room.
We left around 10:30am, and the first half of the day the miles came easily. The terrain was amazing, the views were great, and I felt really strong. I have my old Gregory pack with me now, and my body was getting used to how that felt after not wearing a pack for so long, but otherwise I felt great. (My back and neck had been hurting for a while before leaving trail, so I decided to swap out my Hyperlite Junction for my more comfortable but heavier Gregory Deva 60). We took a long break for some lunch at a river and foraged huckleberries the whole way up the next climb.
Near the end of the day though, both Zip and I were feeling fatigued. Our low backs and hips were sore, and my feet felt achy for the first time since the desert. 2.5 weeks off trail is really showing. At first I had fresh legs and was flying down the trail, and then after about 6-8 miles my body realized we were back to doing this again, and it started to whine.
We crossed a few rivers before arriving at camp (one crossing happened in the river itself, the other we walked across a large fallen tree) and I had Mac and cheese with tuna for dinner. I stretched before bed and am now laying in my tent feeling quite exhausted. Need to get up and pee one last time, which I don’t love doing in the dark.
Mile 2130.3
We ran into Huck today which was an amazing surprise! I haven’t seen him since before Walker Pass near the end of the desert. I knew he was now going SOBO, but I wasn’t sure when or if we’d bump into him. It was great seeing a familiar and comforting face. Huck has a sense of calm about him that permeates whatever space he’s in. What a good guy.
Zip and I were super proud of ourselves for today. We ended up going 19 miles, which we weren’t sure if we’d be able to do. Feeling sore the last few days, it’s been an adjustment getting back into the swing of things. We thought we might decide to stop at a dirt road a few miles back, but instead pushed to get here and we’re both so glad we did. On the last mile into camp we walked along an exposed ridgeline with what Zip deemed as one of the best views in Oregon. At one point we could see three huge peaks in the distance. (I later found out these were Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Rainier).
I’m camped with Zip at the Eagle Creek trailhead. Tomorrow morning we’ll descend 2,500 feet over 4 miles, and then after a while we’ll walk behind “Tunnel Falls”, a massive waterfall with a tunnel carved behind it to walk through. We’ve heard mixed things about the trail conditions down there, but everyone has said it’s worth it and really beautiful.
My hips, low back, legs, and feet are all sore, but it was a good day. Snuggled up in my tent now and looking forward to some good sleep.
Mile 2149.5
Today felt like it was broken into two completely different worlds. The morning was incredible, magical, and exciting. The afternoon felt like I was collapsing under the weight of what I’ve already gone through and what I have yet to complete.
We started off our descent toward Tunnel Falls in the most beautiful weather. The air was crisp and clear, and it started to feel like Autumn for the first time. The descent was steep and tough, with a crumbling trail and a burn zone with too many sketchy blowdowns to count, but overall our spirits were high. As we made it to the bottom of the canyon and joined the river we’d be following for the rest of the day, we started to find beautiful waterfalls and areas that would make picturesque campsites. We were eating up the scenery and couldn’t believe our eyes when we turned a corner and saw Tunnel Falls for the first time. At 172 feet, the waterfall streamed like a sheet of lace from somewhere far above us to the deep blue pool below. Bright, kelly-green ferns and lichen tattooed the rock around it, and a small tunnel had been carved behind to make for one of the most dramatic and cool moments of the trail. We each took turns hiking through the tunnel, and then went through one last time together.
I also just have to throw in here that Ziploc almost lost her trekking pole over the side of the cliff. By some crazy luck, it was caught by some ferns and grasses about 4-feet below the trail. We laughed so hard. I couldn’t believe she dropped it, I couldn’t believe that it was caught, and then I couldn’t believe that she managed to reach it and pull it back up. A heroic moment for sure!
Somewhere a few miles later my body started to give in to the heat of the day, the pounding of my feet, and the enormity of so many miles left of this journey. I felt like I was fighting heat exhaustion the last few miles into town while my mind became more and more negative. By the time we made it to Cascade Locks, I was starting to feel a terrible headache and nausea. I could hardly enjoy what an incredible accomplishment it was to be standing underneath the Bridge of the Gods (an iconic landmark of the PCT, the bridge extends over the Columbia River Gorge and marks the end of Oregon and the beginning of the state of Washington). I felt sick, I felt overwhelmed, I felt homesick, I felt defeated, I felt surprised at all of this, and I felt weak, both mentally and physically. It was such a stark contrast to the morning, that the shock of it almost made everything worse.
After getting something to eat and setting up camp at the RV Park, I called Erich and cried my eyes out. I told him this was it for me, that I wanted to quit and come home. It was a beautiful few days between here and Timberline Lodge, but I don’t think I can do it. I’d felt like this a few times before I’d taken my break off trail - will I ever get to enjoy the trail again without being sick? I’m in so many forms of pain and discomfort and I just want it to stop. This is the only time on trail that I’ve seriously considered quitting.
Erich was sweet and supportive, but told me I needed to get some sleep before making any decisions. He wants me to hike one more week before making a final decision. That would mean hiking the next 5-day section to Trout Lake, Washington, which feels really far with how I’m currently feeling. Sometimes hiking this trail feels like climbing the rungs of an endless ladder while being pelted with hail, wind, and mud.
I don’t know what I’m going to do, but I know I need sleep so badly. My tent is only about 50 feet from a railroad track, and I expect the trains will be going by several times throughout the night. I’m just feeling defeated. 500 miles of Washington feels insurmountable.
Mile 2153.6
I’m back on trail after spending about 24 hours in Cascade Locks. I felt better today. Calmer, even though I was still emotional. I talked to Erich again and also called my mom and talked everything out with her.
After a few hours this morning, I decided to get a food resupply and try going the next 80 miles to Trout Lake. If I get there and I still want to be done, then I can go home after that. This way I’ll give myself space and time to truly make a good decision, whatever happens.
This evening when Ziploc and I walked over The Bridge of the Gods, I was brought to tears several times. I couldn’t believe I was actually walking across it after so many years of imagining this moment. It was windy, we were 75 feet above the water, and traffic was driving right past us. We took pictures together on the Washington side, and continued a few miles to camp. Just like that, this milestone is behind me, with the state of Washington looming ahead, feeling like a held breath.
Mile 2168.9
We were able to get to camp early today after about 15.5 miles or so, and it felt so nice to actually enjoy being in camp. We calculated our mileage to get to Canada, and figured out we can get there within about 35-36 days, which includes a couple of zero days. That calculation allows us to average 15-mile days, which would be so, so nice. Washington is going to have harder terrain, so our mileage will likely drop naturally. For now it feels nice thinking about only doing 15 miles in a day, rather than killing ourselves to push 20.
Overall I had a really nice day. I was worried about the heat, but luckily we were able to do most of the climbing in the morning, and most of it was in the shade. It’ll be similar tomorrow, so we’re planning on the same wake-up time to leave by 6am. In the afternoon I listened to a country playlist and then a bit of Harry Potter & the Order of the Phoenix.
Camp has been so nice, I’m happy to be here with Ziploc.
Also, the views today were amazing! A few times we were able to see Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. St. Helens all in one panoramic view. The leaves also seem to be turning slightly, and the colors are just gorgeous. In one area in particular I could hardly stop taking pictures, it was just so beautiful.
Mile 2179.3
Taking a break at Trout Creek, and it’s so lovely. We’re sitting in the shade after going in to rinse ourselves off and cool down, the water was fresh and cold. I saw a large crayfish that was orange-y red crawling around from shore, and I’m glad I didn’t see it before I went in the water.
The breeze is warm, sometimes even hot. We’re hiking through a heat wave this week on trail, so we’re trying to be strategic about getting up early and taking lots of breaks. I also packed out a lot of fresh food which I’ve never really done on trail, and that’s been helping me feel a lot better so far.
Tomorrow I’ll hit my halfway mark. It’s crazy to think I’ve come so many miles and still have yet to hit my halfway. I have to keep reminding myself that I missed a lot of Oregon.
Mile 2184.7 (Same day as previous entry)
Ziploc and I stopped at an established campground for the night. We’re staying on a nice tent pad near Panther Creek. It was another nice day today, despite the heat. I feel like we made really good time this morning, considering it was a climb. After a long break for an early lunch, we pushed on and got to descend for the remainder of the day. The only downside to this is that we lost elevation in a heat wave, which is kind of a bummer because it’ll be a sweaty night. Luckily though tomorrow we’ll ascend up to around 4000 feet, and then we’ll sustain that elevation until we go into town in a few days. Right now we are at less than 1,000 feet and it’s super hot.
Tomorrow is supposed to be the hottest day of the week with a high of 100 degrees. We are taking a road walk in the morning to cut off some of the climbing that the trail does and get us further up the trail faster. It will position us better for camping tomorrow night at a lake, as well as getting us into town a night early.
Mile 2208
Camped at Blue Lake after a great day. We climbed out of the lower elevation and followed Panther Creek for a majority of the way. We managed to get the climb done by lunch time and had shade to hike in because of that. When we stopped for lunch, I had to pitch my tent for Zip and I to jump into because there were so many flies and bees swarming us. It wasn’t the most relaxing break, but it felt good to lay down and take a breather.
After lunch we continued hiking, and a few miles before camp ran into Skittles, Squats, and Wrong Way! It’s always such a highlight when I get to run into them, they’re like a ray of sunshine. We hung out with them for a bit taking a break, and then pressed on to Blue Lake where we’re now camped. We cooled off in the water, and it seems like it’s going to be a bit of a cooler night tonight which I’m really looking forward to. We’re up at elevation and it’s breezy - amazing.
Mile 2226.6
We made it within 5 miles of the road to town tomorrow. There’s a shuttle that picks up hikers at 8:30am, so we’re waking up at 4:45am to pack up and make sure we’ll be there on time.
This has honestly been a really nice stretch of trail. It’s been hot, but I think we’ve managed it well, and I’m proud of myself for carrying extra water and staying hydrated. We did early mornings so we could hike in the cooler parts of the day, and got all of our climbs done in the morning. We jumped into rivers to cool down, enjoyed the shade of the beautiful forests surrounding us, and drank up the views of snowcapped Mt. Adams, Mount St. Helens, and Mt. Rainier in the distance. We’ve had a lot of lovely and meaningful chats, I’ve listened to hours of Harry Potter, and we’ve also walked in silence, just listening to the environment around us and pondering our own thoughts.
I’m feeling better than I was at Cascade Locks. How incredibly on point was it that I was feeling my lowest I’ve ever felt on trail while at the lowest point in elevation on the whole PCT. After sleeping, getting back into the mountains, talking to friendly faces on trail, and actually savoring the good stuff instead of speed-hiking past it, I’m happy to be out here again. I’m still homesick and wishing I was in Erich’s arms, but I’m also not done here yet. There’s still so far to go, but I’m just going to take it in pieces, one stretch at a time, and enjoying what I’ve got while I’ve got it.
Washington would go on to become my favorite state on the entire PCT. I’m so excited to begin sharing the Washington blogs with you all <3
